Saturday, May 17, 2014

How to Paint Your Floor for Under $200!



Last week, I ripped up my old ugly carpet in my living room and painted the wood subfloor to make a gorgeous, clean, contemporary new floor treatment. It takes a little time because you have to wait for things to dry, but it really was easy. And the best part—the new floor cost me LESS THAN $200!

Then I bragged about it to all my friends. Both of them wanted to know how I did it. So here are my step-by-step instructions telling you exactly how to do this in your own living room.


THE "BEFORE"


Yes, my walls were yellow. And I loved them. But it had been several years and they needed to be freshened up. And that ugly brown carpet? It might look okay in this photo, but trust me when I say it was HID-E-OUS! It wasn't just an eyesore. It was also smelly and infested with… whatever infests old carpet.

I hated to have people come over because you'd step inside my house and be immediately assaulted with "old people" smell. (Yes, that smell.) And although I make lots of jokes about looking and acting old, I really don't want to smell that way.


MY PROJECT

I decided while I was doing the floors to go for a whole new look in the living room and down the hall. (NOTE: If you're going to paint the walls, do that BEFORE you paint the floors.) I used Behr® Premium Plus Interior Satin Enamel on the walls, ceiling, trim, and floor—all the same color because it makes it really easy and fast and you don't have to worry about smudging the wrong color on the wrong surface.

(My color is Haze. I fell in love with this color several years ago when my daughter used it in her townhouse. It's not in their paint chip selection anymore but they do still have the color percentages in their computer.)


PREPPING THE FLOOR

This is THE hardest part, by far. You need muscles. My boys came over and moved my furniture out, and then they pulled up the carpet. I was expecting the subfloor to be the same as it was in the Master Bedroom that I recarpeted a few years ago—mostly flat and smooth.

But nope. It had pieces cut out that you could completely lift away from the floor… (No idea why.)


Some ginormous cat pee stains that were starting to get furry:
I left my toes in the photo so you can see exactly how big the cat pee stain was.


And some major damage where there was tile in the entryway.


At this point, I panicked. But my friend Jana said not to worry, we could fix it.

We pulled out all the staples and there were lots because apparently whoever laid the carpet thought it needed a staple in every. single. inch. We started out using pliers to pull staples by hand but that got old really fast, so we ran to the store to get a floor scraper tool. Worth every penny! (This link is not the brand we got. We went to a local hardware store that doesn't have a website. But it was one almost exactly like this one.)

Then we sunk all the nails. (That means we lightly sanded around them and then hammered them so the heads were even with the wood flooring.)

We sanded the damaged flooring in the entry as well as we could but it still wasn't perfect. (Doesn't have to be.) We bleached  the cat pee stain (1/2 water, 1/2 bleach, applied with rag) and sanded away the fur.

Then we used Liquid Nails Concrete & Mortar Repair* and ran it along every seam and divet we could find. After it dried, we sanded again.

*You really want to use this exact product and brand. We tried a different brand but it didn't work at all. This one is very easy to use and dries fast. Get it at Walmart.


PRIMING THE FLOOR

Once we decided the floor was prepped enough—and honestly, we just got tired and decided it was good enough—we were ready to prime.
Prepped floors with Liquid Nails applied.

We used Kilz Original Primer | Sealer | Stainblocker Interior Oil-Base. This stuff is so awesome, I'm going to buy stock in their company. It goes on thick and smooth, and then kind of settles in the cracks and small holes and helps to even things out. It also totally seals the wood (and any lingering cat pee grossness) and primes it for the paint.

It's easy to apply. We just poured small puddles of it straight onto the floor, then smoothed it out with a paint roller on an extension pole.

We did two coats with one gallon. The tricky part was painting me into my bedroom for the night and my helpers out the front door.

PAINTING THE FLOOR

The next morning, the Kilz was dry and we were ready to put the color on.

We did two coats of paint. I used the Behr Premium Plus Interior Flat in the Haze color, but if I had it to do over again, I'd just use the same satin paint I put on the ceiling and walls. You don't need satin on the floors because the polyurethane (coming next) provides all the shine you need. But I ended up with a half gallon of satin (from the walls) and half gallon of flat (from the floor) left over. If I'd gone with the same type, I could have purchased less paint.

The first coat we applied the same way we did the Kilz. We poured it straight onto the floor in small puddles and smoothed it out with a roller on an extension pole. After it dried (about two hours later), we put on the second coat. This time we poured smaller puddles, spread it with the roller, then immediately threw on decorative paint flakes in a random pattern.

Tip: When you're painting near your baseboards, apply paint with an edger and keep a damp rag nearby. If there's wet paint on your baseboards when you throw the chips, they will stick. If you do get flakes stuck to the baseboard, use the damp rag to wipe them off.

We used 1 1/4 bags of the Behr Premium Interior/Exterior Decorative Flakes, the Tan Blend. The paint flakes provide the magic! Up until the flakes, you could still see some of the seams and damaged spots in the subfloor if the light hit it just right. But those flakes covered that right up. It confuses your eye so you don't see the defects in the floor.

Remember that cut out square? Even though I knew exactly where it was on my floor, after we added the paint flakes I had to look really, really hard to find it.

And here's the cool part: If you have a hand spasm and throw too many flakes in one spot? Just grab your roller, paint right over the flakes in that spot, and try again!

Here's a close-up of my floor with the flakes on.

MAKING IT SHINE

After all this work, you need something to protect that beautiful floor. We used MinWax Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for Floors in the Oil-Based Clear Satin. We put it on by hand using a rag—poured a very small puddle on the floor, then rubbed it in. Some people will tell you that you can use a roller, and you can, but it makes bubbles show up. Bubbles are bad.

(P.S.: Don't shake the can of polyurethane. That makes bubbles, too. If needed, gently stir it with a stirring stick.)

The polyurethane goes on with a very light brownish tint and will make the floor look slightly darker than the original paint color. We wanted that to happen to give it a little extra oomph. (The flakes increase the oomph factor, too.) Here's my floor between the second and third coats of polyurethane.


Tips for Applying Polyurethane: 
  • Wear disposable gloves. If you get this stuff on your skin you will smell funky for days.
  • It stinks. Leave the windows open when applying it.
  • Like paint, it needs to dry completely between each coat. We wanted to make it go a little faster so we closed all the windows, cranked the heater up to 85 degrees, and then left to run errands for a few hours.
  • You will probably need three coats, so it will take all day.

And Voilá!


Just a few additional notes:
  • Have someone help you with this project. There were times when the extra muscles or a second set of hands was vital to success.
  • This is my friend Jana's technique for painting floors and she walked me through it step-by-step. She painted her cement floors in her basement and out on her patio. They've held up really well for several years. 
  • This is the first time she/I have painted wood floors. Since wood has a little more give than cement, there's a possibility it won't hold up quite as long. But I don't care. I love it.
  • Everyone who has seen it in real life has been amazed at how good it looks and how easy it was to do it. 
  • This is MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE. If you try to do it using my technique, you do so at your own risk. You can't sue me if it doesn't turn out the way you hoped it would.

MATERIALS NEEDED/PRICES

This list with prices only includes what I purchased to prepare and paint the floor. It does not include what I purchased to paint the walls, ceiling, and trim. Nor does it include basic tools I already owned or the new accessories (like my new area rug that I got for a steal!!!).

Except where indicated, I got everything at Home Depot. (And no, I don't get any payment for recommending/linking to these items.)

This is what I had on hand and/or borrowed:
  • Hammer
  • Pliers 
  • Floor Scraper Tool
  • Hand Sander with 80 grit sandpaper
  • Caulking Gun
  • Bleach
  • Rags
  • Rubber Gloves

This is what I bought:

Grand Total for Me, including tax = $188.38

Like I said, this doesn't include the painted walls and ceiling or the accessories. Just the floor. And prices in your area may vary. But it's a whole heck of a lot cheaper than carpet or linoleum—and if I can do it, you can do it too!

P.S. Feel free to share this on Pinterest, Facebook, your website, etc. but please link back to this post.

4 comments:

Roger said...

I'm amazed that my daughter could do this!!

Great job looks great

Dad

Karlene said...

Thanks! I painted the walls and the trim by myself, but had help with all the other stuff. :)

G. Parker said...

Now you're going to want to do it to all the rooms! lol

Chris Davis said...

I love I'm going to do this in my family room